The dealer reported that the oil they use and Honda OEM is Castrol Synthetic. I had the oil tested by Blackstone at 1000 and again at 6500 when the oil was changed.

I had the oil changed in my 2016 Ody at 20% (6500M/10 months) because I was about to make a 1000+ mile trip at the advice of the service adviser. My Honda dealership provides 4 oil/filter changes as part of the sale (notice I didn't say free).

Will not try anything else since I am kind of tired of head swaps and cams failing. Have teens of thousands of miles on the new (used) head and have used nothing but Edge. I previously had used 'whatever oil' and sheared a cam / birdsnested a bearing, which was ironically what was wrong with the OEM engine it had in it when I bought it for ultra cheap (I assume they were also using 'whatever oil' and probably dinosaur juice too non synthetic). The same oil and filter fit basically all Honda engines 4 or 6 (and probably even the Insight 3 cyl) just the suggested weight changes and the PL14459 may not be the one listed but still fits in most. I generally run Purolator One PL14459 which is not the largest but tends to not have external clearance issues either (some models can't use the huge filter as it is too close to the suspension, or manifolds, or etc). I buy the 5Q jug and have just under a quart left over for top off, depends which filter you choose since sometimes the listed one is not as physically voluminous (big) but you can use the larger version on most Hondas. This was after my own Internet research including the Bob Oil site, Edge showed up as nearly ideal for Honda designs (also considering several used oil analysis results, not just 'trip reports' and hype). Not noticing any problems at the moment.I use nothing but Castrol Edge at whatever the cap says for weight, and try for the High Mileage but I also don't wait for it to be in stock if the regular Edge is there. BTW, I did a conventional to synthetic oil conversion at 220K. I could add some UV dye into the motor oil and trace where things are coming from. If I still can't figure out where the oil is coming from, I'll have to just carry around more oil and AT-205 Reseal. This is the stuff that's remaining (needs to happen all together): The old ones were stuck in place real well so I had to break the o-rings out with needlenose pliers and an knife.Ħ. New blue Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets and valve stem o-rings. The car smoked more than usual (maybe a week) while I was trying to clear the excess oil which dripped onto the exhaust components and the bottom cat.ĥ. Lesson learned, always test drive small distances before doing a highway road test. I just put the old square-shaped 'O' ring back in and applied Hondabond for good measure. I'm hoping I didn't do permanent engine damage. I pinched and cut two o-rings and even test drove around a bit with oil gushing out. Dumb me followed a YouTube video to replace this but I can never seem to get the new O'ring seated in correctly within the tight tolerance. Hondabond seems to be holding the oil in well with 2 bolts.Ĥ. VTEC solenoid (inside gasket and outside gasket) - Broke one bolt after using a 3/8 Torque wrench because it never 'clicked' (should have used a smaller wrench). Too much positive pressure causes oil leaks.ģ.

Replaced the PCV valve to lower pressure in the engine. Peaked between the engine and tranny to see if it's a rear main seal leak.Ģ. So far, I have done the following during the COVID-19 stay at home orders:ġ.

I also have an oil leak problem so I'm doing a lot of work on the engine. I got the car for $100 so I'm not complaining. Click to expand.I seem to have a similar problem with my '07 Ody with 220K.

2007 honda odyssey oil filter